Pros: In everyday operation, the ATC Guide operates similarly to the original ATC for standard belays, making it simple to use and easy to double to check. Black Diamond subsequently added an Alpine Guide version that is lighter, more compact, and handles skinnier ropes-between 6.9mm and 9mm. The ATC Guide was released a little over a decade after the original ATC, bringing multi-pitch functionality to otherwise tried-and-true belay devices. It is also harder to use as an improvised ascender. The ATC works with ropes between 7.7mm and 11mm, works with both single and double ropes, and accommodates two strands of rope for rappelling, making it a favorite for a variety of climbing disciplines ranging from the gym to single-pitch and from rock to ice.Ĭons: The downside of the Black Diamond ATC is that it’s not as well suited for multi-pitch climbs as other options because it doesn’t have an assisted-braking feature for belaying a seconding climber off the anchor. The Black Diamond ATC’s straightforward design makes it easy to use, familiar to the majority of climbers, and simple to double-check before climbing. Pros: The ATC’s long history and universality have helped make it one of the most affordable and widely available belay devices. Over its approximately thirty-year life, the ATC has undergone relatively few changes, most notably shedding some weight and spawning different versions like the ATC-XP which features high-friction grooves for more stopping power and the ATC Guide (more on that soon). Credit: Ashley Peck Black Diamond ATCīlack Diamond released the original Air Traffic Controller-better known as the ATC-three decades ago. Keep reading if you’re wondering what the right belay device is for you as we examine the pros and cons of some of the most popular belay devices on the wall, at the crag, and in the gym.
While many of the devices on the market share similar characteristics-namely catching falling climbers-there are a number of features that distinguish one device from another.
Climbers today have a bounty of belay devices to choose from, ranging from traditional tube-style devices to more modern assisted-braking devices. A belay device is an essential piece of rock climbing equipment and often one of the first pieces of gear acquired by new climbers.
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